COASTAL ENGINEERING

The course aims at furnishing knowledge related to linear wave theory, wave propagation from offshore towards the shoreline, short-term and long-term wave motion forecasting, coastal morphodynamics. At the end of the course, students acquire basic elements for the writing of hydraulic-maritime studies, also by the execution of a set of practice exercises. Such studies are preparatory for coastal structure design.

1. INTRODUCTION - 2. HYDROSPHERE Hydrosphere characterization. Mean sea level. Tides and currents. Generation and measurement of wave motion - 3. DATA SOURCE Italian hydrographic and mareographic National service. Monitoring network managed by ISPRA. Nautical charts and beach Atlas. Bottom sea survey. - 4. REGULAR GRAVITY WAVES Formulation of the two-dimensional problem. Small amplitude waves. Engineering properties of linear waves. Nonlinear wave theories. - 5. WAVE PROPAGATION OVER MILD SLOPED BEACHES. Wave shoaling. Wave breaking. Wave refraction. Wave diffraction. - 6. WAVE REFLECTION Schematization and formulation of the problem. Pressure diagram and Saintflou approximation. Reflection coefficient. Wave reflection in front of perforated caissons with internal absorbing cells. Wave reflection in front of deck on pile structure, having an underlying rubble-mound breakwater. Reflection coefficient estimation. - 7. FUNDAMENTALS OF WAVE CLIMATE FOR HINDCASTING AND FORCASTING Wind generation and characterization. Geostrophic wind. Estimate of wind over the sea surface for the forecasting of wave motion. Anemometric data. Geographic and effective fetch. - 8. SEA WAVES Irregular waves and sea state concept. Outlines on probability functions. Probability functions of surface elevation. Synthetic description of sea states. SMB model for short-term forecasting. Available dataset. Geographic translation of wave data. Coastal storm concept. Extreme event analysis for long-term wave forecasting. - 9. SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS Forcing of coastal currents. Coastal current estimation. - 10. COASTAL MORPHOLOGY Terminology. Coastal sediment characteristics. Beach classification. Possible beach profiles. Possible layouts of a beach. - 11. SEDIMENT TRANSPORT DYNAMICS. Hydrodynamics forcing on sediment dynamics. Bed forms and additional flow resistances. Coastal sediment transport. - 12. EROSION AND ACCRETION. Coastal description and determination of the physiographic unit. Sediment budget. Erosion due to sea level changes. Anthropic causes of beach erosion/accretion. Coastline evolution. - 13. COASTAL PROTECTION Structural measures to stop coastal erosion. Structural measures to control erosion. Beach nourishment. Mixed solutions. Naturalization and stabilization of dunes. - 14. GUIDELINES FOR LITTORAL DEFENCE WORKS . Necessary data and surveys. Indications for the choice of a suitable type of coastal protection measure. -15. HARBOURS AND PORT DEFENCE WORKS Port masterplan. Sea ports. Marinas. Classification of port layouts. External works. Internal works. Special works and port furniture. Structure of a rubble-mound breakwater (hydraulic and structural design). Structure of a vertical wall breakwater (hydraulic and structural design).

R. G. DEAN, R. A. DALRYMPLE (1991). “Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists”, World Scientific.

U.S. ARMY CORPS OF ENGINEERS (2002). “Coastal Engineering Manual”, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, D.C.

J. W. KAMPHUIS (2010). “Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management”, World Scientific.