Academic Year 2017/2018 - 2° Year - Curriculum Ingegneria delle acque
Teaching Staff: Rosaria Ester MUSUMECI
Credit Value: 6
Scientific field: ICAR/01 - Hydraulics
Taught classes: 28 hours
Exercise: 30 hours
Term / Semester:

Learning Objectives

The student will learn about the fundamentals of linear wave theory, wave propagation, sea waves, wave hindcasting methods, wave climate analysis, coastal morphodynamics, harbour and coastal structures. At the end of the course, also thanks to the complementary practical exercises, the student will be able to carry out a full study of the wave climate, which is needed for design of coastal and maritime works.

Detailed Course Content

  2. HYDROSPHERE– Characterization of the hydrosphere – Mean sea level – Tides and currentsi – Wave generation and monitoring.
  3. SOURCES OF DATA – The National Hydrographic and Mareographic Service – Bathymetric maps and Beach Atlas – Sea bottom measurements.
  4. REGULAR GRAVITY WAVES – Formulation of the 2D problem – Linear wave theory – Engineering properties of linear waves.
  5. WAVE PROPAGATION OVER GENTLE SLOPING BEACH - Wave shoaling – Wave breaking – Wave refraction – Wave diffraction.
  6. WAVE REFLECTION – Formulation of the problem – Pressure distrubution and Saintflou approximation – Reflection coefficient – Wave reflection due to absorbing caissons – Wave reflection due to docks over piles.
  7. WAVE CLIMATE AND WAVE HINDCASTING – Wind generation – Geostrophic wind – Estimation of the wind velocity on the sea surface – Wind data – Geographic fetch and effective fetch.
  8. SEA WAVES – Random waves and sea states – Probability distribution of surface elevation – SMB model – Geographic traslation of wave data - Storm – Analysis of extreme events.
  9. COASTAL MORPHOLOGY – Characteristics of coastal sediments – Classification of beaches – Beach profiles – Planar beach shape.
  10. SEDIMENT TRANSPORT – Flow field action on the sediment dynamics – Bedforms and additional resistences – Coastal sediment transport.
  11. EROSION AND DEPOSITION – Description of coastal sites and physiographic unit – Sediment budget – Erosion due to sea level change – Antropic causes of erosion/deposition – Evolution of the shoreline.
  12. COASTAL PROTECTION STRUCTURES – Passive and active structures to control beach erosion – Beach nourishment – Mixed solution – Dune stabilization and requalification.
  13. GUIDELINES FOR COASTAL PROTECTION – Required data and analysis – Guidelines for selecting the type of coastal structure.
  14. HARBOURS – Harbour masterplan – Harbour types - Marinas - Port lay-outs – External structures – Internal structures – Rubble mound breakwaters - Vertical breakwaters.

Textbook Information

  1. R. Dean, R. Darlrymple, Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists, World Scientific, 1991
  2. R. Dean, R. Darlrymple, Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications, Cambridge University Press, 2002
  3. U.S. Army, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Coastal Engineering Manual, 2006.